When you are cruising down the highway in your condo on wheels, one of the most important thing to have checked before departing is your tire pressure. No one wants a blow-out at 60mph!
The two major manufactures of RV and Motorhome tires are Goodyear and Michelin. Both of these companies have brochures that give you the pressure you should maintain based on your axle weight. If you don't have these charts, phone and get them!
Inside each motorhome, usually on the wall behind the driver's seat, is a sticker that gives you the recommended tire pressure. This is a good starting guide line but each RV carries different weight loads and different distribution of the weight.
You will need to weigh your motorhome and the best way is at a RV Rally where commercial companies weigh your coach - all the wheels at the same time. Not as accurate (but better than not weighing) is to go to a truck stop, local dump, or commercial truck facility and weigh each axle.
Once you have your weight per axle or by wheel you can use the tire manufactures chart to determine the correct pressure for your coach.
Remember to check your pressure when the tires are cold and before departing on a trip!
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Monday, October 29, 2007
Covers for your RV
The ideal storage place for your RV or Motorhome is in a garage but many of us do not have that choice. There are a number of full covers available from dealers but you may wish to check with your manufacturer first.
When we questioned our motorhome manufacturer (Monaco), we were advised not to use a cover for two reasons, abrasion of the cover against the clear coat on the paint and the problem with mildew buildup.
We have tried using a large tarp over the entire top to stop the leaves from staining the top of the coach but I'm not sure the effort was worth what we gained! Cleaning the top might be easier than getting the tarp on top and then anchored down.
Obviously a good wax job just might be the best protection of all when a garage or carport are not available
When we questioned our motorhome manufacturer (Monaco), we were advised not to use a cover for two reasons, abrasion of the cover against the clear coat on the paint and the problem with mildew buildup.
We have tried using a large tarp over the entire top to stop the leaves from staining the top of the coach but I'm not sure the effort was worth what we gained! Cleaning the top might be easier than getting the tarp on top and then anchored down.
Obviously a good wax job just might be the best protection of all when a garage or carport are not available
Backing Up Your Motorhome
Backing up your motorhome needs to be done CAREFULLY! Most RV dealers require two people to back up a motorhome. One person driving and one person doing the directing. Obviously they have learned the hard way - so you would be wise to follow them and use two people.
The motorhome is very large and even with a rear view monitor and big mirrors, you cannot see everything, left, right, up high, and down low. Place your spotter just behind the motorhome off to the drivers side so the driver can see them in the mirror. Decide in advance some arm motions that both the spotter AND the driver mutually understand. Only move backwards when the spotter is motioning the driver to do so. The spotter may need to have the driver stop the coach several times while the check out the passenger side (curb side) of the vehicle and the distance to obstacles like trees and tree limbs.
Family Radios we find to be most helpful in helping each other back up. The frequently called "walkie-talkies" work great but you need to remember there is a time lapse between pressing down the talk key and when communications actually take place.
Yes, backing up can be a problem - so far we have killed one water pipe (knocking out water to the whole campground until the faucet could be repaired) and one RV dealers fence was given a gentle budge backwards! Embarrassing moments to be sure!
The motorhome is very large and even with a rear view monitor and big mirrors, you cannot see everything, left, right, up high, and down low. Place your spotter just behind the motorhome off to the drivers side so the driver can see them in the mirror. Decide in advance some arm motions that both the spotter AND the driver mutually understand. Only move backwards when the spotter is motioning the driver to do so. The spotter may need to have the driver stop the coach several times while the check out the passenger side (curb side) of the vehicle and the distance to obstacles like trees and tree limbs.
Family Radios we find to be most helpful in helping each other back up. The frequently called "walkie-talkies" work great but you need to remember there is a time lapse between pressing down the talk key and when communications actually take place.
Yes, backing up can be a problem - so far we have killed one water pipe (knocking out water to the whole campground until the faucet could be repaired) and one RV dealers fence was given a gentle budge backwards! Embarrassing moments to be sure!
Winterizing Your Motorhome or RV
Questions about winterizing your motorhome usually come at this time of year when the nights become cool and frosty weather is just around the corner.
Since we are now retired, our first advice is to do as we do - head South!
Winterizing you coach depends on several questions. Will you be using your coach during the winter? Do you store your coach in a protected and heated environment? Do you live in an area where the winter is not severe and you have electricity to the coach.
If you have fairly mild winters and electricity to your coach, you might elect to not winterize it you are close by and can turn on electric heaters on cold nights when the temperature goes below freezing. It would take over 4 hours of under 30 degrees before freezing in the coach would be a concern. We have placed an electric light in the service bay and a night light in the refrigerator outside compartment (after placing cardboard over the vents to keep the wind out) to protect the waterline to the ice maker. You can put your thermostat down to 40 degrees to keep the faucets and toilet safe from freezing. Keep all interior cabinet doors open. Thermometers with remote sensors let you monitor compartment temperatures with opening the doors - great invention!!!
If you have more severe winters and do have electricity, you will can choose to drain all the water from your tanks, (including your hot water tank) and then depending on how cold it gets blow all the water from your water lines using a special blow-out plug that can be purchased from an RV dealer or RV parts store. Again, you will need to monitor the conditions in your coach and use heaters and lights. If the electric power should fail you could be in trouble! Please note this is not as safe as totally winterizing your coach.
To totally winterize your coach you need to first remove and bypass your water filter, drain your water from your tanks (including your hot water tank), empty both your grey and black water tanks, blow out all the water in your lines using a blow-out plug, use a bypass for your drained hot water heater (available from your RV dealer or RV parts store if not installed in your coach), then pump the RV/Marine antifreeze into your water lines so there is no location in the water system not protected (pumps for this purpose so you can pump directly from the bottle and through a faucet can also be purchased). Please note this is a special RV/Marine antifreeze created for water systems. Under no circumstances use automobile antifreeze - this is poison! You then need to pour a cup of antifreeze into each trap under the shower and sinks and then add a small amount of antifreeze to bothe the grey and black holding tanks. If you have an ice maker then you need to take apart the water line going to the ice maker and drain the line. Your RV or motorcoach manual has exact locations and directions on how to do this procedure. You can also pay to have an RV dealer do this for you if you are not handy. It is far better to take the precaution of winterizing than dealing with broken pipes in the wall come Spring!
Don't forget, winter travel with a motorhome can be fun! Just don't leave your water hose outside - work off your tank and remember to add a little heat to the service utility area so your valves don't freeze. Some motorhomes even come equipped with special heaters to keep the tanks from freezing and heated tape for the most vulnerable water lines - or a dealer can install these to your coach.
Since we are now retired, our first advice is to do as we do - head South!
Winterizing you coach depends on several questions. Will you be using your coach during the winter? Do you store your coach in a protected and heated environment? Do you live in an area where the winter is not severe and you have electricity to the coach.
If you have fairly mild winters and electricity to your coach, you might elect to not winterize it you are close by and can turn on electric heaters on cold nights when the temperature goes below freezing. It would take over 4 hours of under 30 degrees before freezing in the coach would be a concern. We have placed an electric light in the service bay and a night light in the refrigerator outside compartment (after placing cardboard over the vents to keep the wind out) to protect the waterline to the ice maker. You can put your thermostat down to 40 degrees to keep the faucets and toilet safe from freezing. Keep all interior cabinet doors open. Thermometers with remote sensors let you monitor compartment temperatures with opening the doors - great invention!!!
If you have more severe winters and do have electricity, you will can choose to drain all the water from your tanks, (including your hot water tank) and then depending on how cold it gets blow all the water from your water lines using a special blow-out plug that can be purchased from an RV dealer or RV parts store. Again, you will need to monitor the conditions in your coach and use heaters and lights. If the electric power should fail you could be in trouble! Please note this is not as safe as totally winterizing your coach.
To totally winterize your coach you need to first remove and bypass your water filter, drain your water from your tanks (including your hot water tank), empty both your grey and black water tanks, blow out all the water in your lines using a blow-out plug, use a bypass for your drained hot water heater (available from your RV dealer or RV parts store if not installed in your coach), then pump the RV/Marine antifreeze into your water lines so there is no location in the water system not protected (pumps for this purpose so you can pump directly from the bottle and through a faucet can also be purchased). Please note this is a special RV/Marine antifreeze created for water systems. Under no circumstances use automobile antifreeze - this is poison! You then need to pour a cup of antifreeze into each trap under the shower and sinks and then add a small amount of antifreeze to bothe the grey and black holding tanks. If you have an ice maker then you need to take apart the water line going to the ice maker and drain the line. Your RV or motorcoach manual has exact locations and directions on how to do this procedure. You can also pay to have an RV dealer do this for you if you are not handy. It is far better to take the precaution of winterizing than dealing with broken pipes in the wall come Spring!
Don't forget, winter travel with a motorhome can be fun! Just don't leave your water hose outside - work off your tank and remember to add a little heat to the service utility area so your valves don't freeze. Some motorhomes even come equipped with special heaters to keep the tanks from freezing and heated tape for the most vulnerable water lines - or a dealer can install these to your coach.
Communications for Computers - WIFI, Air Cards, & Satellite
In recent years traveling has become much easier due to the easy access to the Internet. We use our laptops to stay in contact, pay our bills, to do research, for mapping and directions, as well as entertainment - sports scores and even Spider Solitaire!
Many of the campgrounds now provide free WIFI Internet service that you can receive while parked in your RV! Others provide Internet at a clubhouse or other common area. The minimum service we now find is a phone line for Internet use and I haven't done this in so long I don't think I can remember how to do it anymore!
Most of the newer laptops (made within the past three years) have WIFI built in and you simply log on. If you plan on traveling with a desktop model then you will need to install a WIFI card and hope for parks that offer WIFI in all the campsites.
Many of the truck stops (like Flying J) have WIFI in their truck parking area but this is easy to use but there is a cost and you need to log on and to pay. Coffee shoppes and coffee cafes also provide either free or low cost WIFI access.
Many RVers use what they call "Air Cards" for WIFI access. We use this method most of the time. You get a card for your computer (slips into the slot at the side of your computer) and it allows you access to the Internet via one of the wireless carriers. We are using the AT&T (Cingular) service but our experience tells us that Verizon is even faster. You can get your card for free by signing up with a service contract with one of the providers for usually a two year period. We actually purchased our card on EBay and choose a model compatible with Cingular. Because we own our own card we have service without a service contract so we can cancel it if we have time periods where we are not traveling - hasn't happened as yet!
Because be both travel with our computers we have set up a WIFI system in our coach using our air card and a special router that works with the air card. This method works just great for us.
It is really cool to be traveling down an Interstate Highway and getting football scores for the driver - or sending off e-mail. This system is definitely slower than WIFI but it works great and is much faster than telephone connections.
Satellite Internet is here and it is doing well! Anytime you see a motorhome with a funny shaped satellite dish (wider than higher) and if it says MotoSat you can guess they are accessing the Internet with this method. Many of the RVers keep their Internet "open" so others can also use their WIFI but it is good manners to ask before using it. Others place passwords into their system so only those with the password can use their system. Sometimes if you strike up a friendship with even a password protected satellite system, the owners will happily share their access with you! This system only works when the coach is parked and not moving.
Many of the campgrounds now provide free WIFI Internet service that you can receive while parked in your RV! Others provide Internet at a clubhouse or other common area. The minimum service we now find is a phone line for Internet use and I haven't done this in so long I don't think I can remember how to do it anymore!
Most of the newer laptops (made within the past three years) have WIFI built in and you simply log on. If you plan on traveling with a desktop model then you will need to install a WIFI card and hope for parks that offer WIFI in all the campsites.
Many of the truck stops (like Flying J) have WIFI in their truck parking area but this is easy to use but there is a cost and you need to log on and to pay. Coffee shoppes and coffee cafes also provide either free or low cost WIFI access.
Many RVers use what they call "Air Cards" for WIFI access. We use this method most of the time. You get a card for your computer (slips into the slot at the side of your computer) and it allows you access to the Internet via one of the wireless carriers. We are using the AT&T (Cingular) service but our experience tells us that Verizon is even faster. You can get your card for free by signing up with a service contract with one of the providers for usually a two year period. We actually purchased our card on EBay and choose a model compatible with Cingular. Because we own our own card we have service without a service contract so we can cancel it if we have time periods where we are not traveling - hasn't happened as yet!
Because be both travel with our computers we have set up a WIFI system in our coach using our air card and a special router that works with the air card. This method works just great for us.
It is really cool to be traveling down an Interstate Highway and getting football scores for the driver - or sending off e-mail. This system is definitely slower than WIFI but it works great and is much faster than telephone connections.
Satellite Internet is here and it is doing well! Anytime you see a motorhome with a funny shaped satellite dish (wider than higher) and if it says MotoSat you can guess they are accessing the Internet with this method. Many of the RVers keep their Internet "open" so others can also use their WIFI but it is good manners to ask before using it. Others place passwords into their system so only those with the password can use their system. Sometimes if you strike up a friendship with even a password protected satellite system, the owners will happily share their access with you! This system only works when the coach is parked and not moving.
ICE In Case of Emergency
Have you entered ICE in your cell phone? Do you know what it is? No it isn't frozen water but it is something that can be most helpful in an emergency.
ICE stands for In Case of Emergency. Emergency personnel (in case of an emergency) may search your cell phone for this entry so they know who to contact if you are unable to tell them who to call.
Do let your emergency contact person know that they are the ICE contact number in your phone and also encourage them to do the same with their cell phone.
ICE stands for In Case of Emergency. Emergency personnel (in case of an emergency) may search your cell phone for this entry so they know who to contact if you are unable to tell them who to call.
Do let your emergency contact person know that they are the ICE contact number in your phone and also encourage them to do the same with their cell phone.
Communications
Staying in touch or being prepared for an emergency - having a cell phone along should be a necessity - don't leave home without one!
For years my husband and I each had a phone with a different provider and usually one of us had service when the other did not. Currently we are both using AT&T (formally Cingular) because it gives us great coverage at home and we live in a mountain community with poor coverage by other carriers.
When we leave home for a trip, we call-forward from our home phone so not only do others not know we are away, but also so we can stay connected with our friends and family.
Mechanical problems DO happen and with a cell phone along you can control your own destiny and obtain help. Medical problems can also occur and again you can phone for help.
We keep extra chargers for our phones permanently aboard the RV - we have learned from experience that is one object too frequently left behind!
You can use your phone to phone ahead and reserve a campsite when nearing the end of your travel day - very convenient!
Did you know about the free information number? Program this into your phone. You will hear a short commercial but it is worth the delay to have free information. The phone number is 800-373-3411. With the money you save from not having to phone information, you will have money to add more minutes to your plan in case you need them!
For years my husband and I each had a phone with a different provider and usually one of us had service when the other did not. Currently we are both using AT&T (formally Cingular) because it gives us great coverage at home and we live in a mountain community with poor coverage by other carriers.
When we leave home for a trip, we call-forward from our home phone so not only do others not know we are away, but also so we can stay connected with our friends and family.
Mechanical problems DO happen and with a cell phone along you can control your own destiny and obtain help. Medical problems can also occur and again you can phone for help.
We keep extra chargers for our phones permanently aboard the RV - we have learned from experience that is one object too frequently left behind!
You can use your phone to phone ahead and reserve a campsite when nearing the end of your travel day - very convenient!
Did you know about the free information number? Program this into your phone. You will hear a short commercial but it is worth the delay to have free information. The phone number is 800-373-3411. With the money you save from not having to phone information, you will have money to add more minutes to your plan in case you need them!
Toilet Paper
Toilet paper issues become very personal and your choices for the RV are somewhat limited to white single or double toilet tissue. There are a number of manufactures that make tissue specifically for RV use but these are expensive and might not be needed.
Do you have a favorite toilet tissue that you use at home? You can test it out! Take on square of the toilet tissue and place it in a glass and let it sit for a few minutes and then either shake or stir up - if it has fallen apart and become mush - you can use it!
Many motorhomers choose to use a covered waste container in the bathroom to handle toilet paper (European style) to absolutely guarantee they won't have valve problems.
Do you have a favorite toilet tissue that you use at home? You can test it out! Take on square of the toilet tissue and place it in a glass and let it sit for a few minutes and then either shake or stir up - if it has fallen apart and become mush - you can use it!
Many motorhomers choose to use a covered waste container in the bathroom to handle toilet paper (European style) to absolutely guarantee they won't have valve problems.
Black Tank (Where the Poop Does Go)
Questions about the handling of the black water come up most frequently - especially since the movie RV came out! Many people are a little embarrassed about asking questions about this issue
The back tank is where the contents of your toilet go. You want to make sure that no other objects get but into the toilet than bodily wastes, special toilet paper, water, and chemicals. No Kleenex, no tampons, and no sanitary napkins. Provide a covered waste can for these objects and educate any visitors before a problem happens!
Grandchildren are fascinated with RV toilets but strange objects will clog your system and ruin your valve! Watch those little darlings carefully!
Chemicals are added to the tank with a few gallons of water after dumping to help dissolve the toilet paper and solids. These products also keep your coach from becoming smelly! I prefer to use the packets since I once had the granules clog the toilet closing mechanism and I had to work on clearing the particles out of the sealing gasket. During that cleaning process I used an emory board - and yes it slipped out of my hand and ended up in the black tank. Yes, of course it clogged the valve but fortunately we were able to flush the tank until we were able to work it out! My husband was not pleased...
Black tanks and toilets contain bacteria and the bacteria is necessary fact of life. The important thing is not to contaminate anything (like people, pets, and food) with the bacteria so caution is required. Gloves should be considered a necessity. When connecting your sewer hose put on gloves first. You can buy cheap vinyl gloves from Home Depot or Lowes in the paint department or any hardware or pharmacy. Keep a box of gloves in your compartment where you can easily slip them on before handling your sewer hose.
Dumping procedure: put on your gloves, lock on your sewer hose to your discharge pipe and securely place the other end into the sewer opening. Many states or towns require you to have a "donut" around your hose to seal the sewer opening. Your nose and the neighbors will appreciate this! Make sure the hose is weighted down by a foot or a rock so it won't pop out of the hole. Open up your black valve and let the black tank drain. We prefer not to drain the black tank unless it is more than half full so we can get a good drain. Flush the black tank if you have this option available. Close the black valve and now open up the grey water tank valve. Let this drain then close the valve. Disconnect the sewer hose from the RV and keep the end elevated and keep lifting the hose to all the fluid goes into the sewer. At this point you can flush the sewer hose with water available from the dump site or perhaps your own RV has a shower in the utility bay or you may have a water hose available. Never allow a drinking hose to touch a sewer hose!!!! Store your sewer hose and then remove your gloves by pulling off from the cuff. Wash your hands well with soap and water and then dispose of the gloves and any paper toweling used.
That's all there is to doing this - it will become routine and with good seals not as bad as you might think.
If for some reason you have a spill - it is your responsibility to clean up. For sanitary reasons - wash the spill down the drain then rinse with a bleach solution. Remember to always carry bleach on board!
The back tank is where the contents of your toilet go. You want to make sure that no other objects get but into the toilet than bodily wastes, special toilet paper, water, and chemicals. No Kleenex, no tampons, and no sanitary napkins. Provide a covered waste can for these objects and educate any visitors before a problem happens!
Grandchildren are fascinated with RV toilets but strange objects will clog your system and ruin your valve! Watch those little darlings carefully!
Chemicals are added to the tank with a few gallons of water after dumping to help dissolve the toilet paper and solids. These products also keep your coach from becoming smelly! I prefer to use the packets since I once had the granules clog the toilet closing mechanism and I had to work on clearing the particles out of the sealing gasket. During that cleaning process I used an emory board - and yes it slipped out of my hand and ended up in the black tank. Yes, of course it clogged the valve but fortunately we were able to flush the tank until we were able to work it out! My husband was not pleased...
Black tanks and toilets contain bacteria and the bacteria is necessary fact of life. The important thing is not to contaminate anything (like people, pets, and food) with the bacteria so caution is required. Gloves should be considered a necessity. When connecting your sewer hose put on gloves first. You can buy cheap vinyl gloves from Home Depot or Lowes in the paint department or any hardware or pharmacy. Keep a box of gloves in your compartment where you can easily slip them on before handling your sewer hose.
Dumping procedure: put on your gloves, lock on your sewer hose to your discharge pipe and securely place the other end into the sewer opening. Many states or towns require you to have a "donut" around your hose to seal the sewer opening. Your nose and the neighbors will appreciate this! Make sure the hose is weighted down by a foot or a rock so it won't pop out of the hole. Open up your black valve and let the black tank drain. We prefer not to drain the black tank unless it is more than half full so we can get a good drain. Flush the black tank if you have this option available. Close the black valve and now open up the grey water tank valve. Let this drain then close the valve. Disconnect the sewer hose from the RV and keep the end elevated and keep lifting the hose to all the fluid goes into the sewer. At this point you can flush the sewer hose with water available from the dump site or perhaps your own RV has a shower in the utility bay or you may have a water hose available. Never allow a drinking hose to touch a sewer hose!!!! Store your sewer hose and then remove your gloves by pulling off from the cuff. Wash your hands well with soap and water and then dispose of the gloves and any paper toweling used.
That's all there is to doing this - it will become routine and with good seals not as bad as you might think.
If for some reason you have a spill - it is your responsibility to clean up. For sanitary reasons - wash the spill down the drain then rinse with a bleach solution. Remember to always carry bleach on board!
Grey Water
Grey water is the water you use in washing the dishes or in showering and it is stored in its own storage tank. This is the tank that becomes filled up the fastest and you will learn how to conserve water for you don't fill up your grey water tank within the first 24 hours of a trip!
Grey water is dumped into a sanitary sewer at your campsite or at a dump in a campground or at a rest area that provides this service.
Deodorants are available to treat your grey water tank but most of us dump frequently enough that we do not bother to use these.
We suggest that all owners of coaches label their dump valves so no question ever arises as to which valve is for the black or the grey tank. If you are ever having to assist a friend and the valves are not labeled - the smaller pipe going to the discharge is the grey and the larger diameter pipe is the black.
When staying in a campground for a period of time we leave the sewer hose connected coach dump assembly and the other end in the sewer opening and we keep the grey valve open so the grey tank is constantly being drained. 24 hours before departure we close the grey valve so the grey tank builds up for the rinsing of the hose after draining the black tank.
Grey water is dumped into a sanitary sewer at your campsite or at a dump in a campground or at a rest area that provides this service.
Deodorants are available to treat your grey water tank but most of us dump frequently enough that we do not bother to use these.
We suggest that all owners of coaches label their dump valves so no question ever arises as to which valve is for the black or the grey tank. If you are ever having to assist a friend and the valves are not labeled - the smaller pipe going to the discharge is the grey and the larger diameter pipe is the black.
When staying in a campground for a period of time we leave the sewer hose connected coach dump assembly and the other end in the sewer opening and we keep the grey valve open so the grey tank is constantly being drained. 24 hours before departure we close the grey valve so the grey tank builds up for the rinsing of the hose after draining the black tank.
Fresh Water
Fresh water is carried aboard your motorhome in a specific tank and in our case we carry 100 gallons of fresh water and another 10 gallons of hot water when we are full. Because water weighs about nine pounds per gallon, you need to plan ahead and only carry what you expect you might need in an emergency or for dry camping.
Issues that need to be addressed are the quality of your water and keeping it clean.
Your water is only as good as the source at the time of delivery. If your tank is filled from a municipal water supply you will normally have adequate chlorine to keep your water safe. If you fill your tank from well water you do not have any chlorine to purify your water. If you fill your water tank with municipal water the chlorine content will drop over a fairly short period of time - perhaps only three days. You should have a test kit aboard to insure that your water stays protected and you should add chlorine when the safe level drops.
Filters - many motorhomes have filters installed in the motorhome between the storage tank and your drinking source to filter out the chlorine taste and also any minerals and other solid particles that are in the water. Other motorhomes have filters that filter out all the water as it leaves the tank and goes to all your faucets. In most cases it is wise to filter out particles as you fill your tank - but not a filter that removes your chlorine. This filter will attach to your hose between the faucet and the coach.
Sanitizing your water system. It is recommended that every three months you put a mixture of 1/4 cup chlorine to 1 gallon of water for each 15 gallons of water in your tank. For our 100 gallon tank we need 6 2/3 gallons of the mixture. You pour your mixture into the tank and then fill with water. You then run your faucets until they smell of chlorine. Next you go shopping or off for a hike because you want your water system to sit for 4 hours. You now drain your water tank and fill with fresh water. You run your faucets until you no longer smell chlorine and your system has been sanitized!
Care of your water hose is most important and you need to make sure your water hose is one approved for drinking water. Before using your hose run some water through it to rinse out any dust particles then attach to your filter or coach. After using your hose keep the ends out of the dirt and roll up the hose letting any water drain and then attach the open ends together to keep out dirt and creepy crawlers!
Issues that need to be addressed are the quality of your water and keeping it clean.
Your water is only as good as the source at the time of delivery. If your tank is filled from a municipal water supply you will normally have adequate chlorine to keep your water safe. If you fill your tank from well water you do not have any chlorine to purify your water. If you fill your water tank with municipal water the chlorine content will drop over a fairly short period of time - perhaps only three days. You should have a test kit aboard to insure that your water stays protected and you should add chlorine when the safe level drops.
Filters - many motorhomes have filters installed in the motorhome between the storage tank and your drinking source to filter out the chlorine taste and also any minerals and other solid particles that are in the water. Other motorhomes have filters that filter out all the water as it leaves the tank and goes to all your faucets. In most cases it is wise to filter out particles as you fill your tank - but not a filter that removes your chlorine. This filter will attach to your hose between the faucet and the coach.
Sanitizing your water system. It is recommended that every three months you put a mixture of 1/4 cup chlorine to 1 gallon of water for each 15 gallons of water in your tank. For our 100 gallon tank we need 6 2/3 gallons of the mixture. You pour your mixture into the tank and then fill with water. You then run your faucets until they smell of chlorine. Next you go shopping or off for a hike because you want your water system to sit for 4 hours. You now drain your water tank and fill with fresh water. You run your faucets until you no longer smell chlorine and your system has been sanitized!
Care of your water hose is most important and you need to make sure your water hose is one approved for drinking water. Before using your hose run some water through it to rinse out any dust particles then attach to your filter or coach. After using your hose keep the ends out of the dirt and roll up the hose letting any water drain and then attach the open ends together to keep out dirt and creepy crawlers!
Sanitation Issues or "Where Does the Poop Go"?
In normal life the city of local town takes care of your water and sewer issues and rarely do home owners need to give thought to these issues. In motorhoming you are responsible for these issues and the health of yourselves in relationship to these issues.
I will break these issues into three separate posts - Fresh Water,
Grey Water, and Black Water (where the "poop" goes)
I will break these issues into three separate posts - Fresh Water,
Grey Water, and Black Water (where the "poop" goes)
Sunday, October 28, 2007
Driving A Large Motorhome
Who drives your motorhome? Our answer is both of us, although my husband does the largest percent. We feel strongly that all spouses or partners need to be able to drive! Although by stretching, I can measure 5'2", with power steering and power brakes there is no reason any female cannot be the driver.
Many RV dealers, rallies, or commercial driving schools exist and they are there to help get you rolling. The extra length and width (and height) can initially seem intimating and you can expect that you will not be comfortable behind the wheel until you have been driving for at least three months.
When traveling for longer distances, it makes sense for the driver to get breaks at least every two hours. This can mean a hike around a parking area but switching drivers even for a short period or longer will mean that the driver will arrive at the destination less tired and more relaxed!
Safety - safety - and safety cannot be under stressed!
It was pointed out in one driving course we took a number of years ago, the reason most women don't drive is because of the husband! The men automatically jump into the drivers seat be it the motorhome or the car and assume they are the designated driver. When having their wives drive, they sit in the passenger seat and constantly gasp, squeal, and give directions and comments! It was pointed out to us that since most men are passengers for less than 90% of the time (without realizing this) their brains are wired to be comfortable in their relationship to the center line and not the side line. Thus the "you're going off the road syndrome is a real factor for the men" and with both spouses knowing about it in advance you can either send the husband back to the bed or laugh about it!
Emergencies do take place! Bill injured his right knee while we were on a trip from Georgia to Indiana! No need to panic or change plans - just change drivers for a few days and all the travel plans stay in place! Motorhomes offer a great place to elevate and ice down an injured knee and beautiful scenery along the way!
Many RV dealers, rallies, or commercial driving schools exist and they are there to help get you rolling. The extra length and width (and height) can initially seem intimating and you can expect that you will not be comfortable behind the wheel until you have been driving for at least three months.
When traveling for longer distances, it makes sense for the driver to get breaks at least every two hours. This can mean a hike around a parking area but switching drivers even for a short period or longer will mean that the driver will arrive at the destination less tired and more relaxed!
Safety - safety - and safety cannot be under stressed!
It was pointed out in one driving course we took a number of years ago, the reason most women don't drive is because of the husband! The men automatically jump into the drivers seat be it the motorhome or the car and assume they are the designated driver. When having their wives drive, they sit in the passenger seat and constantly gasp, squeal, and give directions and comments! It was pointed out to us that since most men are passengers for less than 90% of the time (without realizing this) their brains are wired to be comfortable in their relationship to the center line and not the side line. Thus the "you're going off the road syndrome is a real factor for the men" and with both spouses knowing about it in advance you can either send the husband back to the bed or laugh about it!
Emergencies do take place! Bill injured his right knee while we were on a trip from Georgia to Indiana! No need to panic or change plans - just change drivers for a few days and all the travel plans stay in place! Motorhomes offer a great place to elevate and ice down an injured knee and beautiful scenery along the way!
Where Do You Park For The Night?
So you are ready to travel but where will you spend the night? Planning ahead or "winging it" are two ways to travel - we use both methods and enjoy both!
Trailer Life and Woodalls both have extensive RV Campground Directories in both book and CD format. We use both and they not only list the location of campgrounds but also provide directions, phone numbers, and ratings so you can make an informed decision about where you choose to spend the night, week, month, or even longer.
Passport America is an annual fee campground club that offers 50% off camping all around the country. Again, CD's and a Campground Directory help you locate a campground and a phone number allows you to call ahead for availability.
Wal-Mart stores - yes, we have indeed slept at Wal-Mart! We do not make a regular use of this wonderful service, but it is ideal when traveling long distances and only need a place to park for the night. This is not a campground and you should ask permission from the management before staying and park in a location that does not interfere with other shoppers. Usually the store will tell you where they prefer for you to park. Do plan on shopping while you are there - it is sure easy to fill up a shopping cart, wheel it to the door of the RV and then just load into the fridge or cabinets! Please do not abuse this hospitality - this is not a campground and a number of towns have passed ordinances to stop overnight parking.
Flying J Fuel stops and other truck stops offer you a place to stop for the night and this can be a little noisy with trucks coming and going. You just might wake up in the morning to find a truck full of chickens next to you - this happened to us! Sure can give you something to talk about!
FMCA has an Atlas that shows the location of campgrounds as well as Wal-Marts, Flying J Fuel Centers plus more!
Trailer Life and Woodalls both have extensive RV Campground Directories in both book and CD format. We use both and they not only list the location of campgrounds but also provide directions, phone numbers, and ratings so you can make an informed decision about where you choose to spend the night, week, month, or even longer.
Passport America is an annual fee campground club that offers 50% off camping all around the country. Again, CD's and a Campground Directory help you locate a campground and a phone number allows you to call ahead for availability.
Wal-Mart stores - yes, we have indeed slept at Wal-Mart! We do not make a regular use of this wonderful service, but it is ideal when traveling long distances and only need a place to park for the night. This is not a campground and you should ask permission from the management before staying and park in a location that does not interfere with other shoppers. Usually the store will tell you where they prefer for you to park. Do plan on shopping while you are there - it is sure easy to fill up a shopping cart, wheel it to the door of the RV and then just load into the fridge or cabinets! Please do not abuse this hospitality - this is not a campground and a number of towns have passed ordinances to stop overnight parking.
Flying J Fuel stops and other truck stops offer you a place to stop for the night and this can be a little noisy with trucks coming and going. You just might wake up in the morning to find a truck full of chickens next to you - this happened to us! Sure can give you something to talk about!
FMCA has an Atlas that shows the location of campgrounds as well as Wal-Marts, Flying J Fuel Centers plus more!
Rally or Caravan?
Rally or Caravan - or what are they? One of the joys of owning a motorhome is joining up with others with similar interests to learn and share ideas or to explore. Rallies and caravans serve this purpose.
A Rally is when a group of RV's or motorhomes gather in a special place for the express purpose of getting together. This can be a small group of friends, a local motorhome group, or a large convention with hundreds or thousands of motorhomes.
FMCA (Family Motor Coach Association) hold two very large rallies each year alternating from East to West coast. This is an IDEAL place to go and learn from the industry leaders and suppliers. These rallies are ideal for the owners of Class A (large gasoline and diesel motorhomes), Class B (van conversion motorhome styles), and Class C (truck conversions). All three types are self contained vehicles with bath, kitchen, and sleeping accommodations.
Good Sam also holds two very large rallies but they cover all aspects of RVing - from tent campers, to trailers, 5th wheels. and motorhomes. For the motorhome owner, this is less satisfying because all the seminars are spread over the whole industry.
A Caravan is when a group of RV's get together and travel from one place to another together over a period of time. A caravan can be put together by a group of friends, clubs (usually manufacturer based), or by commercial tour groups which provide advanced planning for camping, meals, and touring.
A Rally is when a group of RV's or motorhomes gather in a special place for the express purpose of getting together. This can be a small group of friends, a local motorhome group, or a large convention with hundreds or thousands of motorhomes.
FMCA (Family Motor Coach Association) hold two very large rallies each year alternating from East to West coast. This is an IDEAL place to go and learn from the industry leaders and suppliers. These rallies are ideal for the owners of Class A (large gasoline and diesel motorhomes), Class B (van conversion motorhome styles), and Class C (truck conversions). All three types are self contained vehicles with bath, kitchen, and sleeping accommodations.
Good Sam also holds two very large rallies but they cover all aspects of RVing - from tent campers, to trailers, 5th wheels. and motorhomes. For the motorhome owner, this is less satisfying because all the seminars are spread over the whole industry.
A Caravan is when a group of RV's get together and travel from one place to another together over a period of time. A caravan can be put together by a group of friends, clubs (usually manufacturer based), or by commercial tour groups which provide advanced planning for camping, meals, and touring.
Motorhome traveling
"Off we go again" - sometimes our home based friends get tired of hearing this but we LOVE to travel and we LOVE to share our knowledge and experience with those just getting started with RVing - especially with a motorhome.
We have now traveled to all 50 states (but we had to fly to Hawaii) and to all the Canadian Providences except Nunavut (plane or ship needed here) and we have enjoyed helping many newcomers get started in this wonderful past time.
Together we have now lead three caravans - "Sherman's March to the Sea" (a 15 day caravan across Georgia) and "Maritime Adventure" (23 days in the Canadian Maritimes) followed by "Newfoundland Adventure" (15 days in Newfoundland).
Hopefully you will enjoy our hints and comments and answers to questions posed by not only RV Motorhoming friends but also by those friends contemplating joining us on the road.
We have now traveled to all 50 states (but we had to fly to Hawaii) and to all the Canadian Providences except Nunavut (plane or ship needed here) and we have enjoyed helping many newcomers get started in this wonderful past time.
Together we have now lead three caravans - "Sherman's March to the Sea" (a 15 day caravan across Georgia) and "Maritime Adventure" (23 days in the Canadian Maritimes) followed by "Newfoundland Adventure" (15 days in Newfoundland).
Hopefully you will enjoy our hints and comments and answers to questions posed by not only RV Motorhoming friends but also by those friends contemplating joining us on the road.
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